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THE POPE EXPEDITION OF THE 1850S |
The general location of their camp is on the north side of the river at the confluence. We know this because the journal says this and also specifies its relation with respect to these two rivers. The amount of reuse and disturbance in this area precludes recognition of this camping site. What seems clear is that this is not upstream where an amateur archaeologist placed it years ago. "This day we (for the first time since starting) became aware of the vicinity of the Indians. About sundown we perceived the prairie on fire about two miles from camp, up the river; the wind blowing from the northeast, and directly toward us. As the grass and weeds were dry, and the wind strong, the flames rushed onward with great rapidity. Instant and prompt measures were taken against this appalling danger. The prairie was fired round the camp, from the river to the creek. We were thus in a triangle, the Pecos and Delaware being the sides—the belt of prairie we had burned, the base. There can be no doubt whatever that this was an act of the Indians, as we could clearly see the plain fired in many and different directions at the same time. The fire swept on round the camp, and crossing the creek some hundred yards above us, and seizing the dry grass on the right bank, illuminated the whole plan during the night." P61, Diary of the Expedition, J.H. Byrne, assistant computer |
Camp No. 18—Falls of the Rio Pecos, mouth of Delaware creek; Wednesday, March 8, 1854 "We reached our camp, Falls of the Rio Pecos, mouth of Delaware creek, at five minutes to 10 o’clock a. m. We were fortunate enough at this point to discover an excellent crossing, about 100 yards from the mount of the Delaware creek. The water rushes over “falls,” in a bold and rapid current, at a rate of nine knots per hour. The river at this point has a good rocky bottom; is about eighty feet wide, and two and a half feet deep. There are seven little islands, through which the stream flows with great force. This crossing presents no difficulties whatever, only requiring a few hours’ labor to cut down the banks on either side, to permit wagons heavily loaded to cross without trouble. Those who are acquainted with the several crossings of the Pecos below this say it is by far the best along the river." P59-60, Diary of the Expedition, J.H. Byrne, assistant computer Same camp—Saturday, March 18, 1854. "Some surveys made to find the levels of the river: the result is a fall of three feet one inch in three hundred feet." P66, Diary of the Expedition, J.H. Byrne, assistant computer |
Camp No. 16, March 6, 1854 "The wagonmaster, on his return, (as above mentioned,) reports that at the Pecos he discovered a fire—still burning—at which some Indians had been cooking. From their tracks they were on foot, and appeared to have crossed the river. This was near the mouth of the Delaware creek, our proposed camp for to-morrow night." P59, Diary of the Expedition, J.H. Byrne, assistant computer |
"A stone monument was erected on the summit of a hill on the right bank of the Delaware creek, for reference on the survey across the Llano Estacado." P66, Diary of the Expedition, J.H. Byrne, assistant computer. This stone monument, formerly a large rock cairn was located in the field. Unfortunately it has been vandalized, dug by someone looking for treasures. Still evidence of the stone monument remains and the feature can be reconstructed. How can we be so sure that this is the stone monument referenced in the diary? Because every other hill in the area was examined and this is the only one with a 'cairn." Though vandalized it is possible to see what this was. Also, looking upstream, it is clear that this monument was placed to mark the upper edge of the drainage rather than the creek itself and this is what the surveyors would have mapped. |
While encamped at the mouth of Delaware Creek Pope sent exploratory parties off in different directions. He sent one north to find the "Sacramento River." The account of this side expedition notes interesting details that allow us to track his trip. "I camped having marched thirty-seven miles. About three miles from camp I met a party of Apache Indians, under their head chief, Negrite, who had a paper from the commanding officer at Fort Fillmore, giving him good character. P 65 Traveled a mile along the bank of the Pecos…I then ascended the plain, and at the distance of half a mile came suddenly upon a stream, which I concluded to be the Sacramento. This river is about 50 feet wide, and six feet deep at the mouth—a slight bar forming on the right bank: The bottom is gravelly and hard; in some few places there are quicksands. The river varies from two to fifty feet in width, and in depth from one to fifteen feet. Its course in some places zigzag, and there are three or four hackberry trees on the right bank near its mouth. The water is clear and good, having a slight metallic taste. There is plenty of cat-fish and suckers of a large size near the mouth of the river. Trout can be caught higher up the stream. P 65 Examination of the area via aerial photography indicates that there is no other river that qualifies, based on distances given and other attributes. This is the only river that is the correct distance north and that has a bend in the river, as described. While it does not go exactly due west it goes southwest and then bends to the north east. He was probably deceived by the orientation of the mountains and simply assumed that the river went went into the mountains, a common mistake even today. This interpretation seems reasonable given that there are no other channels anywhere near the vicinity that would have held water and those that are closest (Black Canyon and Rocky Arroyo) do not have conspicuous bends in their course. |
Artist Harry Sindall captured this historic crossing at Falls of the Pecos, just up from the confluence of Delaware Creek and the Pecos River. Sindall accompanied Pope on this campaign. |
The cairn was placed at the edge of the watershed not at the edge of the wash. This is because Pope was mapping the edge of the drainage basin not the wash itself. Cairn is just beyond the left edge of the photo, while Delaware Creek is just beyond the hill on the right side of the photo, and just beyond the right edge of the photo. This is the only cairn-like feature in the area. Photo faces to the west. |
Artist Harry Sindall painted this scene of the Pope's Well encampment, showing the relationship between features and the nature of structures and features present. |
Evidence of indigenous activity is found all around the mouth of the creek. This structure seems to date to the prehistoric period but thermal features located nearby probably span many centuries of use. |
Captain John Pope into material |
"I went up this river five and a half miles due west; it then turned to the northeast. At the bend of the river I found an Indian town, consisting of five or six wigwams." P 65 This small house outline may have been one of those referenced by the expedition. A nearby pipeline may have removed the four or five others. It is also possible that we have yet to find these other wigwams. From this description, however, we are inferring that what are being referenced are brush structures, perhaps with rock ring bases, rather than tipis. We are suggesting that 'wigwam' was used intentionally to convey this type of construction. Moreover, no tipi rings are present in the area, supporting this notion. Recreational activity, oil and gas construction, and overbank flow on the river could all have contributed to the erasure of the house features referred to by the expedition. |
Aerial image of Dark Canyon and Carlsbad showing the general route and miles traveled (5.5) up river. |
This is the Falls of the Rio Pecos at the mouth of Delaware Creek. |
The crossing is represented by shallows where bedrock is visible above the water line. |
Looking downstream from the 5.5 miles point the general route is fairly clear given that there are limited flat lands south of the river, with steep and rugged limestone ridges on either side. He was south of the river because they note that they backtracked a half mile, forded the river, and then went north for about 3 miles to a domed hill where they could obtain a view. In this image the forde is at the far end of the photo where the steep ridges slope downward, allowing passage. |
Looking west and northwest from a high point at about 5.5 miles it is possible to see the completion of the extreme bend in the river where it turns northeast. They did not continue upriver because their goal had been reached. They were attempting to discern if there was timber present and if it could be floated downstream into the Pecos and down to the contruction site. |
Evidence of use by highly mobile groups is present throughout this canyon and their remains are difficult to see. This wall to an enclosure is barely discernable but is indicated by upright slabs that have become tilted and by stacked slabs. |
POPE'S WELL |
SIDE EXPEDITION TO DARK CANYON |
intro |
A modern photograph was taken from approximately the same area (although probably a little more to the east). He was probably sitting on a wagon when he painted the scene because he was much higher up. The sky was clearer too so that Guadalupe Peak could be seen in the distance, which was not visible on the day this photo was taken. The conical tents were on the left side of the photo near the center on the ridge line. |
Cut metal from large cans may indicate that indigeous groups reused this location later, after it was abandoned. They may have scavenged material from the site to use for their own purposes, including to make arrow points and tinklers. On the other hand, many Hispanic and Euro-American groups living on the fringe, beyond the economic sphere of mainstream society, used and reused materials, adapting them to new purposes, improvising as needed to accommodate everyday needs in their remote location. Repurposing is a factor of material availability and connection to supply rather than ethnicity. This debitage tells little of who cut the can and what it was used for. Discovery of the resulting implement would provide more information on who is responsible. |
Thermal features are present on the surface and partially buried beneath the surface. Some of these may indicate use before Pope and some may be indicative of this post-Pope use. Still others may relate to Pope's presence. The one shown in this image is the most recent and clearest, and even has charcoal exposed on the surface. All the other poential thermal features are indicated only by a few pieces of burned limestone mostly buried beneath the sandy surface. |
A map drawn by Don Clifton many years ago shows much of the camp. It illustrates the rings for the rectangular tents used by Pope and the officers on the high ridge to the right in the painting and it shows the well site in the low area between ridges. What is missing is the third locus where the enlisted men camped in the conical tents. |
One of the stone enclosures that surrounded the rectangular tents on the high ridge to the northeast where Pope and his officers lived. |
A deep rectilinear cut in the ground, through the limestone bedrock, marks the location of the well, also shown in the artists painting near the base of the slope of the ridge. |
In this image we are looking down from the highest point where Pope had his tent, past the well location, and to the enlisted men's living area where the concical tents are shown. The two tents were positioned to the left or east of the two-track road as it reaches the top of the low ridge. |
Four clearings that may represent the locations for four distinct conical tents are visible in the field. The two most distinct ones are located on the north end of the ridge where the painting shows them. The clearings are so vague that most archaeologists would not consider them features, as is evident from the map shown above. Artifacts are associated with two of these, but no evidence of the fires shown in the painting could be found. The slope in front of and to the east of the conical tents is eroded and it is likely that evidence for these thermal features has eroded away. |
The two images above show one of the clearings from two different directions where a conical tent was located. Artifacts are present and associated with two of the rings, including historic and prehistoric (flaked stone) ones. One reason they are so vague is that tent pegs were likely used instead of stones so there are no stone rings surrounding the features. It is widely recognized that structures may have been present on many sites that have not left evidence, and this is one of those instances. Yet evidence is present, it is simply less obtrusive than many archaeologists are willing to accept. Cumulatively there is sufficient evidence to argue for the presence of these conical tents but their presence would have been missed were it not for the painting. The evidence is sufficient to verify the accuracy of the painting as well. |
Some of the artifacts present are clearly period specific, verifying that the artifact assemblage belongs to this occupation.This image shows a percussion cap. There are also artifacts from what is presumed to be an earlier occupation as well, but these include only flaked stone. |
THE SIBLEY TENT A tent has been invented by Major H. H. Sibley, of the army, which is known as the “Sibley tent.” It is somewhat similar to the Comanche lodge, but in place of the conical frame-work of poles it has but one upright standard, resting upon an iron tripod in the centre. The tripod can be used to suspend cooking utensils over the fire, and, when folded up, admits the wooden standard between the legs, thereby reducing the length one half, and making it more convenient for packing and traveling. Illustration: Sibley Tent. This tent constituted the entire shelter of the army in Utah during the winter of 1857-8, and, notwithstanding the severity of the climate in the elevated locality of Camp Scott, the troops were quite comfortable, and pleased with the tent. In permanent camps the Sibley tent may be so pitched as to give more room by erecting a tripod upon the outside with three poles high and stout enough to admit of the tent’s being suspended by ropes attached to the apex. This method dispenses with the necessity of the central upright standard. When the weather is very cold, the tent may be made warmer by excavating a basement about three feet deep, which also gives a wall to the tent, making it more roomy. The tent used in the army will shelter comfortably twelve men. One of its most important features, that of admitting of a fire within it and of causing a draught by the disposition of the wings, is not, that I am aware, possessed by any other tent. Moreover, it is exempt from the objections that are urged against some other tents on account of insalubrity from want of top ventilation to carry off the impure air during the night. FROM: UntraveledRoad (Website). The text is in the Public Domain. |
The distinctive top on this tent is captured in the historic Sindall painting. Wooden or metal stakes hold the sides in place and this image shows that there was no material on the bottom, leaving it open to the bare earth. if firehearths were built inside these should be evident today and may be revealed through excavation. The tripod is visible in this image in the center of the tent, indicating that the fire hearth would not be centrally located. |
Locus 3 is on the lowest ridge and is represented by an artifact scatter (historic and prehistoric), four tent rings, and at least one thermal feature. The tent rings are paired and include those shown in the Sindall painting at the north end of the locus, plus two additional ones. Although these two southernmost tent clearings are not shown in the painting they are of the same character as those to the north. The fact that they are paired like those to the north also suggests they are tent clearings. Most of the historic artifacts (and the greatest diversity) are located near Ring 1. Few are near rings 3 and 4 although there is a light scatter of historic artifacts and flaked stone across the locus. The two-track road is probably historic, relating to the site occupation. The Sindall painting shows a covered wagon between Rings 1 and 2, suggesting that this road was there at the time. The aerial shows that the track does not end, as was previously suggested, but that it continues on to the southwest, dropping off the ridge where it joins another track. |